Maison Facelis

The Journal

Notes on stones, craft, and the stories behind them.

A place where we share what we know — guides to diamonds and gemstones, the craft behind each commission, and the thinking that shapes every piece we make.

How Professionals Grade Diamonds

Diamond grading is a careful process designed to describe a diamond’s characteristics consistently.

Professional gemologists examine cut, colour, clarity, carat weight, proportions, polish, symmetry, and other identifying features under controlled conditions.

Understanding how grading works can help buyers interpret a laboratory report more confidently.

The Diamond Is Examined Loose

Diamonds are normally graded before they are mounted in jewellery.

A setting can hide inclusions, affect colour perception, and prevent accurate weight and proportion measurements.

Grading a loose diamond allows the gemologist to inspect the entire stone.

Carat Weight Is Measured

The diamond is weighed using a highly precise scale.

Carat weight is recorded to the hundredth of a carat, although equipment may measure more precisely during the grading process.

One carat equals 0.2 grams.

Weight alone does not determine visual size. The grader also records the diamond’s measurements.

Colour Is Graded Under Controlled Conditions

Colour grading is usually performed using standard lighting and a neutral viewing environment.

The diamond may be compared with reference diamonds representing established colour grades.

White diamonds are commonly graded from D to Z. D represents the least visible colour, while increasing letters indicate more noticeable yellow or brown tones.

Because colour differences can be subtle, more than one grader may assess the stone.

Clarity Is Examined Under Magnification

Gemologists inspect diamonds under standard magnification and appropriate lighting.

They identify internal inclusions and surface blemishes, considering:

  • Size
  • Number
  • Position
  • Nature
  • Relief or contrast

The grader then assigns a clarity grade based on the overall visibility and significance of these characteristics.

A diagram may be included on the report to show the approximate position of identifying features.

Cut Is Evaluated

For standard round brilliant diamonds, cut grading may consider:

  • Proportions
  • Brightness
  • Fire
  • Scintillation
  • Weight ratio
  • Durability
  • Polish
  • Symmetry

Measurements such as table percentage, depth percentage, crown angle, pavilion angle, girdle thickness, and culet size may be analysed.

Fancy-shaped diamonds may not receive an overall cut grade from certain laboratories. Their appearance is often evaluated through measurements, symmetry, polish, outline, and visual performance.

Polish and Symmetry

Polish describes the quality of the diamond’s surface finish.

Symmetry evaluates the alignment and consistency of its facets and overall shape.

Common grades include Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, and Poor.

Minor polish or symmetry features may not be visible without magnification, but they form part of the technical evaluation.

Fluorescence Is Recorded

Some diamonds emit visible light when exposed to ultraviolet energy.

Fluorescence is commonly described using levels such as None, Faint, Medium, Strong, or Very Strong.

It is normally recorded as an identifying characteristic rather than included within the 4Cs.

In many diamonds, fluorescence has little noticeable effect under normal lighting.

Independent Verification

Reputable laboratories use trained graders, standardised conditions, and quality-control procedures.

A grading report provides an independent description of the diamond but is not an appraisal or guarantee of retail value.

Buyers should still examine videos, images, proportions, and the actual appearance of the stone.

Final Thoughts

Professional diamond grading combines precise measurement with expert visual assessment.

The process allows diamonds to be compared using a common language. However, grading reports describe quality characteristics rather than emotional beauty.

Use the report to narrow your choices, then evaluate how the diamond actually looks.

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